DMZ

So nearly the first thing that J ever said to me as soon as we met was 'would you like to see the DMZ?'  I was always down for it.  This past Thursday, we finally went.  Now, for those of you who don't know the history, here it is.

After WW2 when Japan was defeated, part of their punishment was that they would no longer be occupying Korea.  The allies separated Korea in much the same way that they did Germany.  Russia got North Korea and the USA got South Korea.  In 1950, North Korea invaded South Korea.  They got the whole country - all the way down to a tiiiiiny bit in the south before the US got involved.  The US helped South Korea push North Korea back nearly to China... which is when China got involved.  The fighting went on until 1953 when the armistice was signed.  Here's the thing - the war never ended.  There was a cease-fire and the border was established around the 38th parallel.  The DMZ (demilitarized zone) is the buffer zone.  On either side of the border there is a 2km buffer zone.  So the way it works is that as you go north, you enter the CCZ - the Citizen Control Zone.  This is as close to the border as you can get without showing identification.  Then you go into the DMZ itself - in order to get in, you have to have your passport. 

So we started in the CCZ.   

 This is the freedom bridge - the new one, that is.  According to our tour guide, the bridge is not complete - there is a hole in the middle of the bridge so that North and South are not actually connected.  This bridge is next to the original 'freedom bridge' where South Korean POW's walked over after the armistice.

 I can't get over how beautiful this country is.

 Memorials.

 I don't know what the meaning of this was, but I was struck by it.

 This is the peace bell.

 And this is an altar that was set up by the South Korean government.  So during the war, people from North Korea fled to the South in hopes of escaping the fighting.  These people assumed they would be able to go home after the war was over.  As we all know, they were mistaken.  Part of Korean culture is the worship of ancestors.  The people who were displaced are no longer able to go home to observe their rituals.  So the South Korean government made this altar, as close to the border as you can go without showing your identification, so that people could go and honor their ancestors as close to their homes as possible.  They do this on Chuseok (which was Friday) and on New Year's Day.

 A map of where we were.

 Crossing the bridge into the DMZ.

 The blue line shows the southern border of the DMZ - from here on, we were officially in the buffer zone between North and South Korea.

 J looking CRAZY happy that she was finally able to do this.  This was outside the film that was shown before we went down into the 3rd infiltration tunnel.

 The flame for those who died during the war.

 So the reason that I have no pictures of the 3rd infiltration tunnel is that no belongings were allowed down there.  You had to leave all your stuff in a locker, then you could go down.  At first, I was curious as to why we were given hardhats to go down... after hitting my head once, it became clear.  They say that the tunnel was 2 meters tall and 2 meters wide... I would like to call BS on that. 

So this was the 3rd of 4 tunnels that South Korea found in the 1970's and 1980's.  Proof that North Korea was planning an invasion that would take them all the way to Seoul.  I was curious as to how South Korea found this tunnel.

 This plaque told me how - a North Korean defector told South Korea about the tunnel. 

 The area around the tunnel was built for tourism.  You get to see these fun little guys....

 And there were some very lovely water works there.  One of the things about the DMZ is that there are no people there, which means that nature has taken the area over.  It's now home to some rare species that are attempting to make a comeback.

 These features were a testament to that.

 The machines of war and the return of nature.  The DMZ is truly one of the most interesting places in the world.

 So then we went to an observation point where you can see into North Korea - and this is as close as I'd like to get.  You can just see the white flag which is South Korea's DMZ village... the red flag that shows where the North Korean one is is slightly more difficult to see, but it's there, I assure you.

 Looking back into South Korea - it's such a beautiful country.

 Also, if you're wondering why I don't have any pix of myself in this one, it's because I was having one of those days where I hate my face... I think my nose is too big, my chin too sharp, start seriously considering gaining some weight back, you know, that kind of crap.  So I will not be featured in this trip.  LOL - not to worry, I'll be back to loving my face in a week or two.

 So beautiful.

 This is the original observation point, which is no longer used.  Honestly, unification doesn't seem like much of a priority for those Koreans that I've spoken to.  I guess after over 50 years of separation, it just becomes normal.

 Another bell.

 The Canadians in our group found this... of course.  LOL.

 So next we went to a train station.

 This is the station that US presidents have visited.

 As well as the South Korean president and North Korean dictator.

 I found these pictures to be fascinating.

 "Following the South-North Joint Declaration made by two Koreas on June 15, 2000, both agreed to connect the Gyeongul Railroad Line broken during the Korean WAr.  Dorsan station was opened on April 11, 2002, and the South and the North connected the Gyeongui Railroad line on June 14, 2003 at the Military Demarcation Line in the DMZ."

 The station doesn't see much traffic.  Apparently there is one train that comes from Seoul every day to show their commitment toward continued peace.

 The plaque outside the station - I think this is part of the original rail line.

 Then we went to Paju (or something like that) for lunch and shopping.

 The sauces that they gave us to go with our shredded cabbage - it sounds odd, but it was really good!

 My lunch - rice with an egg on top, along with a fried pork chop, topped with kimchi.  I forgot until after I ate a bit that I was supposed to take a pic.  Sue me.  LOL.

 Then we went on to Provencetown - a touristy area styled after a French town.  They had bakeries and OH THE MACAROONS!!!  LOL.

 I kinda would like to go back when all the lights are on.

 Have to have the angel wings.

 And flamingos for some reason...

 Fountain...

 And big ol' mushrooms.  You know, it's no wonder I wanted to watch Alice after coming here.  Very Wonderland-esque.

 Hehe... no idea what the cat was surprised about... but I was, too.  Yes, this pic was ok cuz I wasn't trying to look cute... I was being silly!

 See what I mean about the lights?!

 M and J decided to be silly, too.  I think this place was built for couples to be all cutesy and crap together.  LOL - M makes a pretty good horse, tho.

 So I went to use the bathroom and this sign was on the back of the door to the stall.  I think 0 is my favorite - you're not supposed to be in the toilet with only your head above the bowl. 

 The trees are starting to change.

 And the flowers are still amazing.

So that was our Thursday.  All in all, I'd say it was a success.  When we got home, I went to the grocery store so that the next day I could enjoy marinara sauce with my garlic bread and wine.  Friday, Saturday, and Sunday were full of being lazy and Netflix.  Sunday has proven... interesting... with people getting back in touch.  I find it interesting how it seems like online you can go for months or years without anyone from the distant past reaching out, then it seems like in one week you get a ton of random blasts-from-the-past. 

Anyhow, that's where we're at.  It was a nice few days off, and I almost feel up to going back to work tomorrow.  Next weekend is a freebie, then I have a Gatsby Party the following Saturday, followed by Oktoberfest the next weekend, so that should be fun.  I also really want to go to the Daedunsan Mountain Suspension Bridge (or Cloud Bridge).  Apparently it's amazing in the fall when the leaves change.  I gotta say, after 12 years in TX, I'm enjoying having 4 seasons again.  Of course, remind me that I said that in a couple months when I'm begging for wool underthings from back home. ;) 

Also, totally unrelated, when I was in Bristol staying with Ana's friend, she had a handwritten note that said 'men are VILE' on it.  I think 'vile' is an underused word... and I generally agree with her sentiment.  I met some interesting people in Itaewon the other day, and in the course of conversation, one of the guys said 'modern dating is grotesque' and again... I agree.  Also, 'grotesque' is underused.  LOL. 

So I'll have some more deep thoughts and realizations for you later, in the meantime, be kind.  I love you and hope that life is being kind to you, too.